4 live 1 pound lobsters
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika
freshly ground black pepper
5 cups whole milk
kosher or sea salt
snipped chives to finish

Parboil the lobsters and remove meat from the tails, knuckles and claws.
Cut the meat into 3/4 inch chunks. Remove the roe from the female lobsters
and coarsely chop. Or purchase cooked lobster or lobster meat. About 1
hour before serving the stew, drain the chunks of lobster so that they are
somewhat dry, reserving the juice. Over medium heat, warm a 10- or 12-inch
skillet or saute pan with 2- to 3-inch sides. You want lots of surface
area. Melt the butter in the pan. When it is gently bubbling, add the
lobster meat with the roe and sizzle gently for about 1 minute. Using
tongs, turn the pieces over and cook for 1 minute more. The butter will
now have a red color. Sprinkle with the paprika and grind a little fresh
pepper over as well. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 1 minute more.
Pour the milk over the lobster and add any lobster juice. Let it heat
slowly for 5 to 6 minutes until the stew is hot but not quite boiling. Do
not boil. Remove from the heat and let sit for a minimum of 30 minutes.
The sitting time is crucial for it allows the flavors to expand and the
stew to transform itself from good to great. If keeping it for more than
60 minutes, refrigerate the stew. When ready to serve, return the stew to
low heat. Taste and season again with pepper and a little salt, if needed.
When the stew is very hot but not boiling, ladle it into warmed cups or
bowls and sprinkle with chives. The stew will be a pale pink color with
rosy chunks of lobster and little red dots of butter and roe. Serve at
once. Makes about 7 cups. Serves 8.